Bass Rock
On 21st June Mrs Eldorado, Mr Munro and I visited this noisome island, partly for calisthenic purposes, and partly lured by
reports
of a cavernous entrance to the Underworld At The Centre Of The Earth.
Contentedly settled on Seacliff beach 'neath the lowering cliffs of Tantallon castle, surrounded by picnicking paraphernalia, spouses, and combined offspring I have to relate that we were completely deceived by the seductive morningtide whose softly swelling seas and gently suckling breezes lured us to her watery depths.
We scarcely imagined, from the comfort of our sandy beach, the wild and terrible storms shortly to descend upon us.
Donning protective garments we launched our three sturdy coracles into the calm clear waters and after paddling some thirty minutes with light effort we obtained the Eastern seaboard of the Great Bass. Rising ponderously from the ocean, the swollen craggy mass swarmed with the foul airs and lice of a million pestilent seabirds. Screeching herring gulls and poison-necked gannets drenched us with ordure from above as they swirled and skulked in their intricate layers of choreographed aerial assault.
Seeking protection of the great overhanging cliffs we began investigating the narrow defile within whose watery cleft is reputed to lie the immense cave whose entrance is only accessible "at dead ebb of spring tide". Since we had meticulously timed our visit for high water, we expected to find meager evidence of this subterranean chasm, and were therefore little disappointed when we determined no obvious means of ingress.
Thus rebuffed we determined to circumnavigate the vast and stinking adamantine block, and set off with a stiffening wind at our backs for the western side, to seek out the furthermost entrance to this unyielding fastness, passing on our way numerous twitching adventurers, biliously clad in yellow oilskins aboard gaily coloured motor vessels whom we regarded with great scorn.
Rounding the island's rocky northern promontory, we at once found ourselves in the alien climate of Southern Italy.
The sweeping western bay sheltered us utterly from the sea breezes beyond, and adrift in a vast mattress of choking feathers, the pitiless face of the midday sun now directly overhead beat down heavy rays which stirred not a breath of air in this fetid, stifling cove.
Conscious of the deadening hand of this oppressive atmosphere I cautiously drifted stern-wards into a deceptively narrow crack in the inner wall of the bay and was treated to a brief view of the tremendous cavern within before a sudden and terrifying assault from an army of spectral-eyed, raven-toothed sea monsters rising from the deep forced my hasty retreat.
Returning with my reinforcements, together we three friends were finally able to beat back the family of frightened seals and Mrs Eldorado, penetrating further into the deathly gloom than we others dared, reported sight of a glimmer of light deep within the vastness.
And so, braving the jeering shags circling overhead and the surging tide which crashed and groaned before us, we made to beach our slender vessels on the pebbly beach within, struggling to hold them ashore against the grasping tow.
Having taken great care in our preparations for the voyage we carried not a lamp between us and were therefore hopelessly blind in the now stygian gloom.
So girding our loins and linking our bodies for safety we thrust our way by feel and touch forward into the greasy depths, all the while fearing further attacks by killer seals or a sudden fall into the bottomless Bass pit we sensed yawning mere inches from our feet.
Pitching rocks and pebbles before us to cast forth shadows of sound we crept on our way like bats, though the plunging stones spelunking into the oily pools ahead only served to increase our unease.
Tightly sheathed in rubber as we were, however, we had little to fear from the watery hollows and were soon climbing sturdily towards the waxing sunlight, though truth be told straining against its intensity as we were, this made our progress more difficult.
Finally we burst forth into the light of the Eastern shore, high in the inaccessible defile we had glimpsed in our earlier reconnoitrings, and gazed down in relief at the great frothing cobblestones below.
Though we saw no prospect of easily accessing this entrance from the sea, we were able to descend close enough to touch the surface of that surging liquid and thus lay claim to having successfully penetrated the secret passage of the Rock. The first to our knowledge in One Hundred years.
Fortunately the return journey was more easily accomplished with the light of experience and sunshine now behind us, and the shallow puddles between us and our trusty canoes seemed now a trivial barrier.
Launching from the pebbly beach into the rolling waves was merely a matter of delicate timing, and bidding farewell to the friendly seals cautiously shadowing our progress we paddled from the shady grove and the slumbering shelter of the mighty rock out into the throat of a veritable tempest.
Unbeknownst to us whilst we took our pleasure within, a violent storm had arisen without and lashed up wind and wave to ferocious assault, but we had little choice than to do battle.
So we hardy souls lowered our heads, stiffened our sinews, pointed our fragile boats into the teeth of it and made hard for the distant shore.
Though we were never so relieved to reach the safety of St Baldred's Beacon and our sandy bay many hours later, nonetheless Mrs Eldorado took time, tossed and lashed as we were, to laugh at the seas tempestuous might and stopped, casually, to drink from her water canister mid-crossing.
We were a little disappointed, perhaps, at not obtaining the fabled Land Beneath The Sea, but our survival of the journey was certainly not the least interesting incident in a climactic day's adventuring.
K. Sourville
Contentedly settled on Seacliff beach 'neath the lowering cliffs of Tantallon castle, surrounded by picnicking paraphernalia, spouses, and combined offspring I have to relate that we were completely deceived by the seductive morningtide whose softly swelling seas and gently suckling breezes lured us to her watery depths.
We scarcely imagined, from the comfort of our sandy beach, the wild and terrible storms shortly to descend upon us.
Donning protective garments we launched our three sturdy coracles into the calm clear waters and after paddling some thirty minutes with light effort we obtained the Eastern seaboard of the Great Bass. Rising ponderously from the ocean, the swollen craggy mass swarmed with the foul airs and lice of a million pestilent seabirds. Screeching herring gulls and poison-necked gannets drenched us with ordure from above as they swirled and skulked in their intricate layers of choreographed aerial assault.
Seeking protection of the great overhanging cliffs we began investigating the narrow defile within whose watery cleft is reputed to lie the immense cave whose entrance is only accessible "at dead ebb of spring tide". Since we had meticulously timed our visit for high water, we expected to find meager evidence of this subterranean chasm, and were therefore little disappointed when we determined no obvious means of ingress.
Thus rebuffed we determined to circumnavigate the vast and stinking adamantine block, and set off with a stiffening wind at our backs for the western side, to seek out the furthermost entrance to this unyielding fastness, passing on our way numerous twitching adventurers, biliously clad in yellow oilskins aboard gaily coloured motor vessels whom we regarded with great scorn.
Rounding the island's rocky northern promontory, we at once found ourselves in the alien climate of Southern Italy.
The sweeping western bay sheltered us utterly from the sea breezes beyond, and adrift in a vast mattress of choking feathers, the pitiless face of the midday sun now directly overhead beat down heavy rays which stirred not a breath of air in this fetid, stifling cove.
Conscious of the deadening hand of this oppressive atmosphere I cautiously drifted stern-wards into a deceptively narrow crack in the inner wall of the bay and was treated to a brief view of the tremendous cavern within before a sudden and terrifying assault from an army of spectral-eyed, raven-toothed sea monsters rising from the deep forced my hasty retreat.
Returning with my reinforcements, together we three friends were finally able to beat back the family of frightened seals and Mrs Eldorado, penetrating further into the deathly gloom than we others dared, reported sight of a glimmer of light deep within the vastness.
And so, braving the jeering shags circling overhead and the surging tide which crashed and groaned before us, we made to beach our slender vessels on the pebbly beach within, struggling to hold them ashore against the grasping tow.
Having taken great care in our preparations for the voyage we carried not a lamp between us and were therefore hopelessly blind in the now stygian gloom.
So girding our loins and linking our bodies for safety we thrust our way by feel and touch forward into the greasy depths, all the while fearing further attacks by killer seals or a sudden fall into the bottomless Bass pit we sensed yawning mere inches from our feet.
Pitching rocks and pebbles before us to cast forth shadows of sound we crept on our way like bats, though the plunging stones spelunking into the oily pools ahead only served to increase our unease.
Tightly sheathed in rubber as we were, however, we had little to fear from the watery hollows and were soon climbing sturdily towards the waxing sunlight, though truth be told straining against its intensity as we were, this made our progress more difficult.
Finally we burst forth into the light of the Eastern shore, high in the inaccessible defile we had glimpsed in our earlier reconnoitrings, and gazed down in relief at the great frothing cobblestones below.
Though we saw no prospect of easily accessing this entrance from the sea, we were able to descend close enough to touch the surface of that surging liquid and thus lay claim to having successfully penetrated the secret passage of the Rock. The first to our knowledge in One Hundred years.
Fortunately the return journey was more easily accomplished with the light of experience and sunshine now behind us, and the shallow puddles between us and our trusty canoes seemed now a trivial barrier.
Launching from the pebbly beach into the rolling waves was merely a matter of delicate timing, and bidding farewell to the friendly seals cautiously shadowing our progress we paddled from the shady grove and the slumbering shelter of the mighty rock out into the throat of a veritable tempest.
Unbeknownst to us whilst we took our pleasure within, a violent storm had arisen without and lashed up wind and wave to ferocious assault, but we had little choice than to do battle.
So we hardy souls lowered our heads, stiffened our sinews, pointed our fragile boats into the teeth of it and made hard for the distant shore.
Though we were never so relieved to reach the safety of St Baldred's Beacon and our sandy bay many hours later, nonetheless Mrs Eldorado took time, tossed and lashed as we were, to laugh at the seas tempestuous might and stopped, casually, to drink from her water canister mid-crossing.
We were a little disappointed, perhaps, at not obtaining the fabled Land Beneath The Sea, but our survival of the journey was certainly not the least interesting incident in a climactic day's adventuring.
K. Sourville
But enough of that - the important thing I wanted to tell you is that when we got back to shore, hungry as I was,
I came across Mrs Munro admiring a photograph of a rather delicious looking fillet of crispy battered cod.
The instant her back was turned I was able to borrow the magazine,
and on finding several promising looking recipes was, of course,
then obliged to rush in to Sainsbury at the earliest opportunity and buy the damn thing for myself.
I consoled myself with the thought that it does have a section by Nigel Slater (on Meringues) and nothing I could find by Jamie Bloody Oliver.
I consoled myself with the thought that it does have a section by Nigel Slater (on Meringues) and nothing I could find by Jamie Bloody Oliver.
Comments (0)
Scottish Series and Nigella's Tagine
This year I joined the crew of Hobbes
to compete in the Brewin Dolphin Scottish Series at Tarbert.It was a fairly windy (and rather moist) weekend and we had to work hard,
but I got the feeling that we were moving the boat pretty well - she seemed to be sailing fast, and we made few mistakes with no disasters (!).
Definitely worth the aches and pains and we had a real blast yet still we only managed 8th out of 13 in our class.
Sigh. Must go faster.
On Rachel's recommendation we made up one of Nigella Lawson's "Express" recipes to freeze and take with us for one of the crew meals.
Lamb, Olive and Caramelised Onion Tagine
main meat nautical stew
Like all stews, this benefits from being cooked in advance, so it makes sense to cook this on a day when you've got time and reheat it when you're in more of a hurry
Ingredients
1kg/2lb 3oz leg of lamb, chopped into bite-sized pieces
1 garlic bulb, separated into cloves, but unpeeled Can this be right? We peeled ours to avoid the mouthful of skin!
1 x 350g/12oz can pitted black olives in brine, rinsed and drained to give 150g/5oz drained weight
100g/3oz caramelised onions, from a jar Or make your own by slow-frying two spanish onions in olive oil and butter. It just ain't that hard.
4 tbsp capers, rinsed and drained
2 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp ground ginger
1 x 75cl bottle red wine
Method
1 garlic bulb, separated into cloves, but unpeeled Can this be right? We peeled ours to avoid the mouthful of skin!
1 x 350g/12oz can pitted black olives in brine, rinsed and drained to give 150g/5oz drained weight
100g/3oz caramelised onions, from a jar Or make your own by slow-frying two spanish onions in olive oil and butter. It just ain't that hard.
4 tbsp capers, rinsed and drained
2 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp ground ginger
1 x 75cl bottle red wine
Preheat the oven to 150°C/300°F/Gas 2
Place all of the ingredients into a lidded casserole or heavy-based ovenproof pan, pouring in the wine last and giving everything a good stir.
Bring to the boil, then clamp on the lid and transfer to the oven. Cook for two hours, or until the lamb is very tender.
The quickest, and most suitable, accompaniment would be a bowl of couscous, pale and plain or studded with a can or two of chickpeas.
Rachel rather likes mashed potato!
Place all of the ingredients into a lidded casserole or heavy-based ovenproof pan, pouring in the wine last and giving everything a good stir.
Bring to the boil, then clamp on the lid and transfer to the oven. Cook for two hours, or until the lamb is very tender.
The quickest, and most suitable, accompaniment would be a bowl of couscous, pale and plain or studded with a can or two of chickpeas.
Rachel rather likes mashed potato!
The result is incredibly sloppy and tasted, well, mostly of red wine to be honest.
The olives in brine are frankly anaemic (better to use olives marinated in oil), and though it's possible the flavours would have mellowed and improved if left for a few days I don't think there's any substitute for just taking your time.
Express my arse.
The olives in brine are frankly anaemic (better to use olives marinated in oil), and though it's possible the flavours would have mellowed and improved if left for a few days I don't think there's any substitute for just taking your time.
Express my arse.
Getting Here
The Complete Route
Mum's coming up for a visit and needs instructions, so here are loads (Thanks Google Maps!).
Fortunately though, driving through Edinburgh to Hawthornvale is pretty straightforward
since it's more-or-less a straight road with, I think, only one left turn.
At the very end.
Fortunately though, driving through Edinburgh to Hawthornvale is pretty straightforward
since it's more-or-less a straight road with, I think, only one left turn.
At the very end.
Instructions
Portobello
You'll approach Edinburgh from the south along the A1,
You will pass the Edinburgh Bypass (A270) turnoff and continue along the A1,
Follow the A1 straight over the first roundabout you come at 'The Jewel',
where there's a giant Asda.
The Jewel Roundabout
Milton Link
to Portobello
Next you'll arrive at the Milton Link junction.
Here the A1 turns left, but you will go straight through these traffic lights
on the A199 "Sir Harry Lauder Rd" - a big curve of dual carriageway
with a speed camera on it (limit 40mph)
Milton Link and Sir Harry Lauder Road
Next you'll arrive at the new Portobello Road junction.
Go straight through these lights onto Seafield Road.
Portobello Road Junction
Leith
Portobello to Leith
Follow Seafield road for a couple of miles over a switchback railway bridge,
as it becomes Salamander Street, then Baltic Street.
Next you'll be driving through Leith...
Go straight through the traffic light junction crossing Constitution Street,
following the A199 from Baltic Street to Bernard Street.
(this is a slight bear away to the right).
Constitution Street Junction
Follow the A199 over the Water of Leith as it becomes "Commercial St".
Waters of Leith
Commercial Street
Waters of Leith
Go straight through the the traffic lights at North Junction Street
where the A199 becomes the A901 "Lindsay Road".
Ocean Terminal and the Royal Yacht Britannia are on your right.
North Junction Street
Follow Lindsay Road for about a mile past the speed camera (30mph) to Hawthornvale
Lindsay Road
Hawthornvale
Turn left onto Hawthornvale at the red* Lockies Cafe - just after the turquoise fencing on the right.
Follow Hawthornvale to the top.
Find somewhere to park!
Hawthornvale
* cream!
Cucumber Is Not Pizza
I'm on this health kick whilst I try and shake some of my vast expanse of gut.
As a punishment for eating the free lunchtime pizza at work I ate half a cucumber for dinner.
Wish I had a decent digital camera so I could record the true horror!
As a punishment for eating the free lunchtime pizza at work I ate half a cucumber for dinner.
Wish I had a decent digital camera so I could record the true horror!
Cucumber Salad
salad veg vegan
Ingredients
Cucumber
Radish
Sweet/red onion
Red Chilli
Pine nuts lightly crushed peanuts would probably be better
Tarragon vinegar
Caraway seeds
Brown sugar
Prepared English mustard
Method
Radish
Sweet/red onion
Red Chilli
Pine nuts lightly crushed peanuts would probably be better
Tarragon vinegar
Caraway seeds
Brown sugar
Prepared English mustard
Thinly slice the cucumber, radish, chilli and onion.
Boil up the vinegar, caraway seeds and sugar to dissolve the sugar and reduce the vinegar slightly. Whisk in the mustard.
Strain to remove the seeds, pour over the vegetables and mix well.
Boil up the vinegar, caraway seeds and sugar to dissolve the sugar and reduce the vinegar slightly. Whisk in the mustard.
Strain to remove the seeds, pour over the vegetables and mix well.
Probably dill would have worked better than caraway seeds and peanuts rather than pine nuts,
but I didn't have any.
Still, it was quite tasty, though I was pretty hungry - the pizza must have been wearing off.
Still, it was quite tasty, though I was pretty hungry - the pizza must have been wearing off.
Un-Dumped
The girlies might be slightly less than keen, but we are hoping our enthusiasm will sweep them along.
I made them a tasty mango salad in celebration.
Way Hay!
More Fabulous Finns
Hurrah!
My Replacement Choccy Eggs arrived in double quick time, and completely safe and sound. Thanks in no small part to the extreme packaging measures taken by those Fabulous Finns.
Easter is saved - thanks guys!
My Replacement Choccy Eggs arrived in double quick time, and completely safe and sound. Thanks in no small part to the extreme packaging measures taken by those Fabulous Finns.
Easter is saved - thanks guys!
Hi there!
I'm happy to report that my replacement Mignon eggs arrived very quickly and in perfect condition today thanks to your careful packing.
You have saved Easter!
Thanks VERY much.
Regards...
...karl
https://www.cookingwithkarl.co.uk/Cooking/html/Diary/2009-03-30-FabulousFinns.php
https://www.cookingwithkarl.co.uk/Cooking/html/Diary/2009-04-02-FabulousFinns2.php
Fabulous Finns
I ordered a batch of those fantastic
Fazer Mignon Choccy eggs for Easter
from the online Finnish shop Suomikauppa
nicely facilitated by their surprisingly slick and painless online payment setup.
What with the euro exchange rate being what it is this turns out to be a very expensive indulgence, but hey, can't get enough of those Mignons!
I spent the next two weeks(!) salivating in anticipation, and couldn't contain my excitement when the parcel finally arrived in the office and immediately ripped it open.
Things didn't look promising when a rain of crushed eggshell fell like confetti from the parcel, and sure enough, there wasn't much left of my dozen eggs.
However, a sad email to those really nice people at Suomikauppa started a surprisingly pleasant conversation which looks to be about to resolve itself with me receiving another batch of choccy eggs, hopefully in time for Easter!
Yep!
nicely facilitated by their surprisingly slick and painless online payment setup.
What with the euro exchange rate being what it is this turns out to be a very expensive indulgence, but hey, can't get enough of those Mignons!
I spent the next two weeks(!) salivating in anticipation, and couldn't contain my excitement when the parcel finally arrived in the office and immediately ripped it open.
Things didn't look promising when a rain of crushed eggshell fell like confetti from the parcel, and sure enough, there wasn't much left of my dozen eggs.
However, a sad email to those really nice people at Suomikauppa started a surprisingly pleasant conversation which looks to be about to resolve itself with me receiving another batch of choccy eggs, hopefully in time for Easter!
Yep!
Hello there,
I received my order of Mignon eggs today,
unfortunately they were packed in a soft bag instead of a box, and the postmen seem to have jumped up and down on the parcel so all my eggs have been smashed to pieces.
I'm not very impressed with your packaging I'm afraid.
When sending delicate goods abroad, surely it would have been sensible to have used a box?
Regards...
...karl sourville
Hey,
Thank you for your mail. I'm really sorry for the inconvenience.
There are certain dimension restrictions on how large a mini parcel can be, and therefore a decision to pack the goods into a soft bag was made.
We have sent these same products this way all over the world without any difficulties, so to me this seems just an unfortunate one time mishap on the behalf of Finnish post offices.
Surely we will make this up to you any way you like.
Would you like us to send you these products again (in a hard cardboard box), or could we compensate this as a rebate to Suomikauppa?
If you could take photos of how smashed these products really were, we would love to have them over in order to be able to learn from this as of how to pack this sort of orders more securely in the future?
Kind regards,
Suomikauppa.fi
Thank you for your quick response,
Personally I would blame the British Post Office rather than the Finnish one!
I would like to take up your kind offer to replace the eggs, I have 4 which arrived (mostly) unbroken, so if you could send me only 8 more that would make me very happy.
Although I can see that you made a great effort to carefully wrap the eggs in paper, the cardboard egg containers are quite dented so substantial force must have been applied by the postmen.
I have attached a photograph so you can see the damage for yourselves, I opened the parcel and a shower of eggshell fell out like confetti at a wedding. It was very sad :(
Gratefully...
...Karl Sourville
Hey,
Thank you for the photo! I will forward this onto our packing. We will ship you the 8 eggs on today's post!
Kind regards,
Suomikauppa.fi
Hi,
Wow, that's really very nice of you,
and much more than I expected.
What terrific service!
Thank you very much....
...karl
P.S. https://www.cookingwithkarl.co.uk/Cooking/html/Diary/2009-03-30-FabulousFinns.php
Dumped
I've decided she deserves someone nicer than me.
Possibly someone who wouldn't publish her texts on teh interweb.
Fishy Friday
6th March 2009 - The Eldorado House
Fishy Salad
salad fish
Ingredients
Fillets of Sea Bream, cut into lozenge pieces
Sugar Snap peas, cut in 3-4 diagonal sections
Red pepper, sliced
Spring onion, in thick diagonal slices
Figs, sliced into thin segments (skin on)
Mixed salad leaves
Sugar Snap peas, cut in 3-4 diagonal sections
Red pepper, sliced
Spring onion, in thick diagonal slices
Figs, sliced into thin segments (skin on)
Mixed salad leaves
Dressing
Pot yoghurt
¼ Pot double cream or less, the flavour is surprisingly noticeable
Dijon mustard
Olive oil
Balsamic vinegar
Juice of 2 mandarin oranges
Salt & pepper
Method
¼ Pot double cream or less, the flavour is surprisingly noticeable
Dijon mustard
Olive oil
Balsamic vinegar
Juice of 2 mandarin oranges
Salt & pepper
Mix the salad and shake up the dressing.
Grill the Sea Bream pieces skin-side first.
Serve the dressed salad over the leaves, and scatter with the fish.
Grill the Sea Bream pieces skin-side first.
Serve the dressed salad over the leaves, and scatter with the fish.
Really delicate flavoured fish, with a fine, moist flesh.
The pieces only need turning over briefly to finish.
Not really sure about the dressing, but it went well enough. It's tricky to get the balance of flavours just right. Not too much cream, not too little mustard.
Not really sure about the dressing, but it went well enough. It's tricky to get the balance of flavours just right. Not too much cream, not too little mustard.
Fishy Razors
starter fish
Ingredients
Half dozen Razor Fish/Razor Shells/Razor Clams
Fennel seeds
Olive oil
Butter
Diced tomato
White wine
Fennel seeds
Olive oil
Butter
Diced tomato
White wine
Method
Clean the Razor Shells, fry the fennel seeds in the hot olive oil,
add a large knob of butter and add the Razor Shells.
Once they open, throw in the tomato, allow to soften, add a generous dash of white wine, reduce briefly, serve.
Once they open, throw in the tomato, allow to soften, add a generous dash of white wine, reduce briefly, serve.
The Razor shells were rubbery and gritty. Perhaps I overcooked them?
Soaking them in salty water, and perhaps feeding them with a little flour might help to flush through the sand also. Mind you - the gritty bits in our ones weren't just sand but possibly chunks of shell.
The flavour with the fennel seeds was nice though (I tried this because we didn't have any herbs). Perhaps try the same technique with another shellfish - mussels perhaps?
Soaking them in salty water, and perhaps feeding them with a little flour might help to flush through the sand also. Mind you - the gritty bits in our ones weren't just sand but possibly chunks of shell.
The flavour with the fennel seeds was nice though (I tried this because we didn't have any herbs). Perhaps try the same technique with another shellfish - mussels perhaps?
Looking around the intertubes it seems most people
thoroughly clean their Razor Clams
before they use them, cooking them briefly to get them open,
then cutting off the end of the digger, and removing their guts.
I suppose you could then serve them back on their shells or roll them in flour/cornmeal to fry.
I suppose you could then serve them back on their shells or roll them in flour/cornmeal to fry.
