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New Year's Day 2024
The Morning After The Week Before
River Wharfe at Otley

Today I will be mostly eating cheese. And brussels sprouts.
And catching up with the cooking and eating I've been doing over the last few weeks.

Vacherin Mont d'Or is a winter cheese made on the French/Swiss border using milk from the same cows responsible for Comté. They come down from the mountains when the season turns cold and their milk is too meagre and too fatty to make the summer cheese.
It's delicious baked in its spruce-bark box and scooped out with sourdough soldiers.
Like Époisse it also pairs surprisingly well with a Tamarillo Salsa.

Époisses and Tamarillo Salsa on Toast Winter Vacherin Mont d'Or Vacherin Tartiflette Cauliflower Cheese made with Truffled Pecorini

The delightful snowy scene on the river Wharfe above comes courtesy of Otley's Traditionale Victoriane Fayre - well worth a visit on the first Sunday in December.
So a bit of a wait now then.

In the meantime - have some more local wintry scenes...

St. Matthew's Church, Lightcliffe. Frosty Saplings by the Red Beck Frosty Field along the Red Beck

King Oyster Mushrooms with Cream Cheese and Bacon
meat starter side
Making my annual Advent tom khaa kai I came across King Oyster mushrooms in the Chinese supermarket.
Some of them went into the soup, and the others went into some bacon.
You could probably use some other kind of fat mushroom, but it will have to be substantial enough to wrap bacon around.
About 2 per mushroom.

Ingredients
Method
Mash up a garlic clove with some butter if you fancy some extra flavour.
Drag the blade of a knife along the length of the bacon slices to stretch them out a little.

Slice the fat mushrooms in half lengthwise, and cut or scoop out a groove the length of the insides.
Fill the grooves with Boursin.
Smear the cut surfaces with garlic butter if you're using it.
Press the mushroom halves back together and wind bacon slices around each mushroom starting from the bottom of the stalk, until it's completely wrapped, possibly excepting the head. Pin the bacon in place with a cocktail stick right through the mushroom.
Place in a small oven dish and drizzle with olive oil and a dab of garlic butter, if using. Throw in any of the mushroom cuttings too - waste not want not!

Roast at Gas Mark 4-5 for about 20-30 minutes until the bacon is starting to crisp at the edges and the mushrooms are cooked through.
Remove the cocktail sticks and serve the mushrooms dressed with all their lovely juices.
Perhaps with a few green vegetables. Maybe some broccoli.
Delicious!

Braised Celery with Cheese Sauce
veg side
Delia's Recipe has a lot more onion than mine, and a lot less bacon.
And I didn't bother with the egg yolks.
Or the parmesan.
Or par-boiling the celery.
But they're otherwise identical!

Serves 4

Ingredients
Method
Preheat the oven to gas mark 4, 350°F (180°C).

Prepare the celery by discarding any outer stalks if they are coarse and damaged.
Separate the rest of the stalks, leaving the inner ones attached to the root. Clean any dirt off under cold running water. Cut the inner stalks and their roots vertically, then cut all the stalks in half horizontally.
Blanch the celery by putting it in boiling, salted water or use stock for about 5 minutes. Drain well, reserving the cooking water.
Or don't bother with the blanching - I'm not sure it will make much difference since you're going to braise them in the liquid anyway.

Now, in the flameproof casserole, heat 1 oz (25 g) butter and the oil, add the prepared carrot and onion and cook for about 5 minutes. I also fried up a few slices of bacon, cut into fat lardons.
Add the drained celery and 5 fl oz (150 ml) of the cooking water or stock.
If you didn't blanch your celery, give it a good stir around in the butter for a few minutes before adding the water.
De-glaze the pot with a splash of Kümmel or some other herby liquor. If you like.
A fennel liqueur would be perfect, if you had any!
Sprinkle with the celery (or fennel) seeds and season with a little salt and black pepper.
Place the casserole in the oven and bake, covered, for 30 minutes or until the celery is tender.
When ready, transfer the vegetables to a shallow ovenproof dish, using a slotted spoon.
Empty the cooking liquid from the casserole into a measuring jug and make it up to 10 fl oz (275 ml) with the milk.

To make the sauce, heat the butter in a saucepan and fry the finely chopped onion until golden (I didn't bother with extra onion), then blend in the flour and cook for a couple of minutes before adding the milk mixture a little at a time, stirring well after each addition.
Bring to simmering point, still stirring, and simmer gently for a minute or two, then remove from the heat and beat in the Cheddar cheese and egg yolk.
I didn't bother with the egg either, but I wanted to re-use the mixture in smaller re-cooked servings later and didn't want the sauce setting.
Pour the sauce over the vegetables, sprinkle on the Parmesan cheese, and bake uncovered in the oven for a further 25-30 minutes or until it's heated through and the top is starting to colour.
It's pretty good for celery, which is challenging to make tasty.
A bit on the sloppy side though - try not to have too much sauce so that it leaves plenty of the celery uncovered.
I used slices of a brie-like post-Christmas cheese instead of the parmesan. Which also worked fine.

Shaved Brussels Sprouts Salad
veg salad
When Christmas gives you Brussels...
The inspiration for this salad uses pine nuts and dried cranberries. But I didn't have those.
However I did have flaked almonds.

Serves 4

Ingredients
Method
Trim the sprouts, then slice them very thinly on a mandoline.
Break the slices up with your hands or a fork.
Grate over lemon zest and a squeeze of lemon juice.
Dress with olive oil until glistening.
Mix through some grated pecorino.
Add chopped herbs, if using.
Heat a small frying pan and dry-fry a handful of flaked almonds and toss over the salad before serving.
Pretty good brussels!

Beetroot and Cider Soup
soup veg vegan
An unusually fruity beetroot soup, if a bit on the thick side.

Serves 2

Ingredients
Method
Roughly chop the onion, fennel and garlic and sweat in butter over a medium heat until softened.
Peel the beetroot, finely slice and add to onion and fennel.
Add bay leaves and cider and enough stock or water to cover the vegetables.
Simmer over a medium heat until the beetroot is softened.
Peel, core and slice the apples and add to pan.
Remove the bay leaves then blend the soup, in batches if necessary.
Season with salt & pepper.
Pour into bowls and garnish with a dollop of crème fraîche.
Quite good, though you could hold back on the cider a little - it can be a bit overpowering.

It's nice also dressed with a few cooked mussels and cubes of fried black pudding.
You know, if that's what you happen to have around.

Steak and Kidney Pudding
meat main
You can either pre-braise your pudding filling for a couple of hours to give you more control over the result as I do here, or cook everything from raw inside the pudding.
In that case you would need to steam it for a good few hours longer - perhaps 5. You might be able to do this in a slow cooker on high, or for 8-10 hours on low.
You should also then chop the vegetables up small and consider dusting the meat with cornflour rather than wheat flour, which will clump less.
And don't add too much liquid.

Your stewing steak could be neck, chuck, blade, shin, skirt or cheek. Or maybe brisket.
I used shin, and had so many trimmings that I fried them up with some chopped onions, carrots and celery and then boiled them to make a simple stock. Which I strained and used for the pudding filling. Though you could also use them to make a gravy.
Don't cut the pieces too small or they'll disintegrate before you even get them in the puddings.

For the kidneys you will be best using veal or lamb. Ox might be a bit strong.

You can add any extra fillings or flavourings you like, I suppose even (shudder) carrots. Though I did add mushrooms, and garlic, so who am I to talk?
You could substitute red wine for the stout, include some kind of tomato in the filling, and some type of mustard is quite a popular addition, either as a powder in the crust, or a paste in the filling.

I grated some gorgonzola into my pastry after cohering it with the water. But then it is post-Christmas, so now I've got 10 pounds of cheese to get through.

Serves 4

Ingredients
Method
Cut the beef into chunks about 1-1½ large. Be sure to remove any silverskin or connective tissue. Especially if you're using shin.
Quarter the kidneys and remove their core along with any additional stringy bits.
Put the meat and the kidneys in plastic bags and shake up with well-seasoned flour.

Heat the dripping, or oil, in a large frying pan. Adding more along the way as required:
Fry the floured beef in batches to brown, then scoop into a pot.
Fry the floured kidney in batches until browned, then scoop into a pot.
Chop or slice the onion or leek and fry until they begin to caramelise, then scoop into the pot.
Add any other non-canon vegetables like garlic or carrots.
De-glaze the frying pan with the stout and bubble until reduced by half. Add to the pot along with enough stock to cover everything.
Add a dash of soy and Worcestershire sauce, thyme, and a couple of bay leaves and simmer gently for 1¾ hours until the meat is tender.
Keep stirring it occasionally because the flour will stick and burn if you let it. If you're adding mushrooms, cut them into chunks the size of the meat and stir them through towards the end of the simmering.
Adjust the position of the lid, so as to finish with a thick gravy. You may need to boil more vigorously at the end.
Taste and adjust the flavourings and seasoning. Remove the bay leaves and allow to cool.

Two hours before you want to eat, sift the flour into a mixing bowl and add the salt. Add mustard powder if using.
Rub in the suet briefly to mix together with herbs/cheese/nuts if using. Add just enough cold water to bring together into a firm dough using a knife.
Pinch off a quarter of the dough and set aside, then roll out the rest to about ½ cm thick. Butter a 1 litre pudding basin generously, and use the pastry to line it, being careful not to stretch it.

Fill the pastry with meat and gravy, stopping about 2cm from the top, and then roll out the lid and stick it on with a little cold water.
If you want to add some blue cheese, crumble it into the filling in a couple of layers.
Cover the basin with foil, with a pleat to allow the pastry to rise, and fashion a handle out of string to lift the basin out of the water. Put the pudding in a large pan half-filled with boiling water, cover and simmer for 1½ hours.
Though I think it's easier to use a proper steamer. Then you won't need the improvised handle. Or worry about drowning it.
Check the water level regularly and top up with more boiling water as necessary. Turn out and serve immediately.
Delicious!
You will probably want to have extra gravy - either strain some off the filling you made, or make up a separate batch.
I served mine with a cherry and red wine sauce, some charred shallots, piped pea purée and champ (mashed potato and spring onions).

Ecuadoran Tamarillo Salsa
salad veg vegan
Tamarillo, or tree-tomato is a South American fruit. Bright red and pretty tart.
The skin is rather tough, but you can eat all the rest of the fruit even though the seeds are a bit on the large side.
I looked these facts up, because my Local Greengrocer had some, and I therefore had to give them a try.

Makes about ½ cup

Ingredients
Method
Either halve the tamarillo and scoop out the flesh and seeds with a spoon, or quarter it and remove the skin with a horizontal cut with a knife by holding the tamarillo piece flat on a chopping board.
Apparently you can also peel them like tomatoes by dropping them into boiling water for a few seconds.
Chop the flesh. Mince the other solid ingredients.
Mix everything together.
Season with salt and sugar if required to take some of the edge off the bitterness.
Really good.
The original recipe blends everything, but I liked it chunky.
Goes surprisingly well on toast with Époisses cheese. Well, you have cranberry sauce and brie - why can't you have tamarillo salsa and Époisses?

Roast Poussin Stuffed with Black Pudding and Apple
fowl main
Poussin is French for spring chicken, but you could also manage this with any small bird.

Serves 2

Ingredients
Method
Break up the black pudding with a fork - avoid turning it to mush.
Fry small cubes of apple in butter to brown, then mix with the black pudding and some chopped herbs.
I used parsley - but chives or sage would work.
You might consider bulking it with some fresh breadcrumbs if the stuffing is too dense.

Stuff the poussin with the mixture, lard the breast and top of the legs with bacon and roast at Gas Mark 5-6 for about an hour until the stuffing is hot in the centre.
Insert a cake tester, then touch it to your lower lip to check the temperature.
If the bacon starts to burn, cover the bird loosely with tin foil.
I first smeared butter over my poussin, and also rubbed the (thin, streaky) bacon with soft brown sugar.
The sugar was probably a good idea and produced nice crispy strips of caramelised sweet bacon, but the strips curled off and detached themselves from the bird, probably defeating their entire larding purpose. So perhaps don't grease the skin, and perhaps wrap the bacon right round the bird to better hold it in place?
Alternatively roll the wrapped bird around in olive oil and paprika to lubricate before roasting.
Leave the bird loosely covered to rest for 10-15 minutes.

Peel the remains of your apple and cut ¼" slices across the near-middle. Remove the cores if necessary.
Roll in soft brown sugar, then fry both sides over high heat in clarified butter until nicely caramelised.

To serve, carve away the birds legs and breasts.
Scoop some stuffing from inside, pile onto fried apple disks and decorate with chicken pieces.
Well it's no spring chicken. Oh wait, it is! 🤣

Liquorice Beetroot
side veg
Another stage on my mission to combine liquorice with everything.

Serves 2

Ingredients
Method
Cut a beetroot into cubes, or use the small end of a melon-baller to carve out spheres of beetroot.
Juice the leftover parts, and two more beets until you have enough juice to cover the balls.
Throw in a half dozen pieces of liquorice and simmer gently until the beetroot is cooked.
Drain to serve.
Rather nice combination.

Celeriac Chips
veg vegan side experimental
Serves 2

Ingredients
Method
Peel and trim the celeriac and simmer in salted water until softened, but not collapsing.
Cut into chips and deep-fry twice: First at 140°C until cooked but not coloured, then 190°C until brown.
Yeah, no. Celeriac chips are rubbish.
The outsides don't crisp up like potato ones do. Best cook them another way!

Raspberry, Beetroot and Red Wine Sauce
sauce veg vegan
Handy for using up beetroot leftovers.

Ingredients
Method
Slice garlic and shallots or red onion.
Fry until coloured in a little butter along with any spare parts of herbs you have.
De-glaze with red wine, and throw in a large handful of raspberries while you bubble off the alcohol.
Add the liqourice-y juice from cooking liquorice beetroots and continue cooking until the raspberries completely collapse.
Strain the sauce, return to the pan, and bubble until reduced to a sufficiently thick syrup.
Good sauce.
Serve with a roast bird, and don't forget to add the bird's juices.

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