Older
Newer
Early Autumn 2023
A Man-Overboard Buoy goes Overboard off Naples
Sorrento Coastline

Why-oh-why would you attach a man-overboard horseshoe buoy to a yacht by miles of floating plastic line?
Or any line for that matter.
In a typical use case, in which a crewperson fell overboard while the boat was underway and not immediately brought to a stop, the boat would either drag the buoy away from the struggling victim at speed, or possibly drown them if they'd been unlucky enough to get a hold of it. Potentially breaking their arms in the process.
Or just snapping the line. And now you have an even worse problem to deal with, which is that the line you have trailing in the water around the victim presents a serious propeller-fouling hazard should you attempt to motor back up to rescue them.
It just doesn't make sense!

Anyhow, long story short, some friends and I recently rented a yacht for a week out of a marina on the picturesque Italian island of Procida just off the coast of Naples; home to the Bourbon fort and ex-prison Palazzo d’Avalos.
The boat was a comfortable, but somewhat tired Oceanis 48 Serenesse, not without its problems. Probably due to it being the end of season - when the rental is cheaper but and? the weather livelier.

We sailed from Procida to the charming ex-prison island of Ventotene and anchored off its historic Roman harbour Porto Vecchio carved from the volcanic tuff around the time of Christ.
From there a hop back to Sant'Angelo harbour on Isola d'Ischia - the island next door to Procida featuring fine views of Castello Aragonese - its prominent medieval castle and ex-prison, then across the Gulf of Naples to pick up a mooring buoy off the fishing village of Nerano.
The short hop from there further along the coast, past the dolphin-shaped monastic and ex-prison island of Gallo Lungo, to Amalfi harbour gave us the time to hike the terrifying Path of the Gods (il Sentiero degli dei) - a high trail with spectacular cliff views carved into the earth by the Gods in their haste to save Ulysses from the Mermaids' song, that runs along the top of the mountains from Bomerano to Nocelle, finishing up with a descent to Positano down more steps than the human frame can bear to catch a bus back to Amalfi along the coast road.
In the face of increasingly threatening southerly winds, next day we made a lively retreat from the south-facing Amalfi coast, round the libidinous island of Capri, to Marina Piccola under the fantastically carved cliffs of the northern side of the Sorrento peninsula.
Our final day of sailing took us back across the choppy Gulf of Naples to Procida, with a brief stop for lunch. Over which, apparently, we had no time to linger.

Serenity Above - Photo by Mark Serenity Below - Photo by Mark Out to Dinner on Procida - Photo by Mark Ventotene - Photo by Mark Ventotene at Dusk - Photo by Mark Ventotene at Night - Photo by Mark. Sant'Angelo on Isola d'Ischia - Photo by Mark Sant'Angelo at Dusk. 'Your Boat Here' from Nerano - Photo by Mark. Amalfi - Photo by Mark. Sailing towards Capri - Photo by Peter Sailing around Capri - Photo by Peter. The 'Wind Star' off Sorrento - Photo by Mark Castello Aragonese d'Ischia

But the important point is that while we were sailing between Ventotene and Ischia, at some speed in strong winds, our horseshoe buoy blew overboard due to the aged weakness in its elastic clips.
The line very quickly uncoiled from its reel (quickly enough to burn the hand of anyone foolish enough to try and grab it), then snapped off at the end, leaving the buoy and a massive cloud of cheap floating plastic line rapidly receding into the distance.
We decided to attempt a (successful) recovery under sail, turning on the engine but not engaging the gear.
Pretty safe you might think.
Unfortunately somehow the line still managed to wrap itself around the prop shaft so tightly that it couldn't be pulled out. We had a couple of swimmers jump in to brave the bath-temperature waters and try to get a proper look at the problem, and for a while we were seriously worried that we might not be able to free it at all, but fortunately the line was so sunburned and frail that it simply tore apart when we eventually gave the prop a couple of experimental spins.
Problem solved!

Overall the sailing was pretty good, warm enough to be fun even in strong wind and rain, and I realised how much I'd missed it. We packed in a lot of it too; even the Sunsail staff seemed genuinely impressed at the amount of distance we had covered.
It was also nice to be sleeping at sea again - though many of my shipmates struggled with the rolling: I just lay crossways on my bunk which helped enormously.

Naples itself, however, seemed to me an ugly, dirty, confusing mess consisting of filth-covered graffiti-ridden buildings, a transport system that struggles to function, or that I struggled to understand, and a vast industrial zone that resembles a dystopian ruin.
(Though I'm told that all the areas I didn't visit are delightful!)
And now I come to think about it, does seem to be surrounded by an awful lot of prisons!

Beautiful Naples The beautiful prison island of Nisida, Naples More Beautiful Naples Even more beautiful Naples

Seen from offshore the Campanian coastline is quite beautiful, even if like much of Naples the settlements look better after dark, but it is beset with arbitrary sailing and anchoring restrictions, and mooring or berthing is limited and expensive. Even in the off season.
I also found the heat difficult to manage at night despite having my cabin fan running at full blast.
Still, the Mediterranean sea was warm, the fish plentiful, the food excellent if pricey, and the Aperol spritzers the perfect end to many perfect lunches afloat.

Arrivederci!

Karl at the Helm - Photo by Peter Cheers! - Photo by Mark

Marinated Salmon Risotto
fish main italian
I made this risotto (mostly) to use up our leftovers - and we had gherkins so that's what I added. But I think capers might have worked better.
The salmon slices I used, marinated in oil, were pretty tasty, and kept well on the boat. But I'm sure you could use fresh salmon. Or smoked.

If you're making some Aperol fennel with this you can use their trimmings to make a vegetable stock and wash in any orange zest trapped in your grater. Or you could use a fish, or a chicken stock. Otherwise include any other spare vegetable and basil stalks.

I followed the traditional five stages of risotto cookery (your terms may vary):
  • il soffritto: Frying! Finely chopped onions (and possibly other vegetables such as the classic celery and carrot) are sweated in oil or butter without browning.
  • la tostatura: Toasting! The rice grains are pre-cooked so they retain some coherence. You can toast the rice separately in a dry pan, or in the sweated onions.
  • lo sfumato o l'umidità o Il Sospiro: Steaming or Sighing! Wine (or spirit or even lemon juice) is added, whereupon it should sizzle as it hits the hot rice, then is cooked off.
  • la cottura, la bagnatura o il brodo: Cooking! The main ingredient may be added here, then broth is added a little at a time to the rice, stirring until each is absorbed to the preferred degree of sloppiness. This continues until the rice is cooked, retaining just a little bite. About 15-20 minutes.
  • il riposo: Resting? An optional step to allow the rice to cool slightly and finish cooking off the heat before adding the cheese.
  • la mantecatura: Creaming! Off the heat add cold butter and grated cheese and beat until smooth.
  • Eating! Serve!

Serves 6

Ingredients
Method
First chop and fry the pancetta or bacon in a little olive oil until it crisps. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.
Chop the salmon, gherkin leave capers whole, or just lightly crush, if using, roughly chop the rocket and mix everything with the reserved crisped bacon.
Add a light grating of orange zest.

Soffritto: Mince the shallots and sweat gently in the fat left in the pan until they turn transparent.
Tostatura: Raise the heat. Add the rice and stir well to coat and lightly fry, without allowing the onions to brown.
Umifità: Add the minced garlic, stir through then pour in a generous amount of white wine and cook it off. Lower the heat again.
Bagnatura: Have the stock simmering in a pot to hand and add one ladleful at a time to the rice until each is absorbed.
Continue this process until the rice is cooked. Leave the risotto as sloppy or firm as you like it.
Mantecatura: Remove from the heat and beat in the butter and grated parmesan until the risotto turns smooth and creamy.

Now carefully stir through the other prepared ingredients, season if necessary, and dress with a layer of thinly sliced mozzarella.
Once the mozzarella has begun to melt it might need some warm encouragement, serve with a few basil leaves for decoration.
Surprisingly good, I thought.
But then I was very, very drunk.

Aperol Fennel
side
I used some fresh red chillies, but dried chilli flakes would work fine. You could substitute maple syrup for the honey, which is what inspired this dish.
There was no oven thermometer on board the yacht, so I have no idea at what temperature I roasted these, but I'd guess Gas 4-6.
The Aperol is, of course, optional - but when in Naples...

Serves 6

Ingredients
Method
Trim the fennel bulbs of tough or brown bits, strip the fronds for garnish, and par-boil them whole until you can pierce them with a knife. Drain and cut into fat segments vertically from root to stalks. Pack them into a single layer in a shallow oven dish.

Mix together minced anchovies, a good glug or two of honey, a splash of Aperol, the juice of an orange and the zest of about half, 1 or 2 minced red chillies, and a generous amount of olive oil. Season.
You'll need to adjust the amount of chilli according to their heat - you only want a hint of warmth. Don't overdo the orange zest, which can be a bit overwhelming, but the proportions are pretty much up to you 🙂. Use plenty of olive oil - enough to almost cover the fennel.
Pour this over the fennel, and mix thoroughly.
Pre-heat the oven to Gas Mark 4-6/175-200°C/350-400°F.
Bake for about an hour until the sauce melts into the fennel and they just begin to caramelize. Keep an eye on them and baste the juices over the fennel occasionally. Don't let the honey burn.
Serve dressed with the chopped fennel fronds. Perhaps extra grated orange zest. Maybe some parsley.
Really gorgeous.

Feta Salad with Lemon Honey Dressing
salad veg
I didn't have any cucumber, or rather, it turns out we did but I thought they were courgettes so didn't include them.
But you could.
I also used green olives, since that's what we had, but you could also use black, I reckon.

Ingredients
Method
Chop or tear the crisp lettuce.
Chop the tomatoes into decent chunks.
Slice the olives.
Remove any coarse peel from the cucumber, de-seed and cut into chunks.
Grate pecorino and mix everything.
Break or cut the feta into chunks and add to the salad.

Mash a garlic clove or two with a grinding of salt & pepper using the side of a chef's knife. Mix the juice of a lemon with the garlic and about the same volume of olive oil and honey to taste.
Dress the salad and serve.
You could also grate some of the lemon's zest over the salad.

Breaded Aubergine
veg side
I made this using grated gluten-free bread, for our gluten-intolerant skipper. And we didn't have any gluten-free flour so I skipped that dressing step. You'll need to season the aubergine slices. You can do this directly, or add the seasoning with the garlic, or season the egg wash. Whichever you prefer.

You can also add lemon zest to the breadcrumbs, but don't mix the garlic in there because it will probably burn and turn bitter.

Ingredients
Method
Slice the aubergines pretty thinly.
Set out bowls containing the flour if using, the beaten egg, and the breadcrumbs I used fresh, grated, bread.
Mash the garlic with salt & pepper.
Take each slice of aubergine, rub with the seasoned garlic, then roll through the flour if using, the egg wash, and finally the breadcrumbs. Lay in a single layer in a large frying pan and fry in a generous amount of olive oil until browned and crispy, turning to fry the other sides.
Lay the slices on a warmed serving dish, then repeat the frying in batches until all the slices are cooked.

Scatter with grated cheese, grated lemon zest and some chopped parsley to serve.
Pretty good.
I did try adding grated pecorino to the breadcrumbs, but then my crispy coating started falling off during frying, so maybe that doesn't work.

Comments (0)

No comments yet!

Post a comment (Optional)
  • Allowed markup: <a> <i> <b> <em> <u> <s> <strong> <code> <pre> <p>
  • All other tags will be stripped, unless they are in a <pre> (use this for blocks of code)