Soak the beans overnight, if you want to speed up the cooking process.
Make up some celery stock
simmer a chopped head of celery and a chopped onion until the vegetables soften.
Then strain out the stock.
Meanwhile, bring the beans just to the boiling point in a large pot of water, skim away the scum, then drain and rinse the beans in cold water.
Put them back in the pot, add a few bay leaves, a pinch or two of thyme leaves, a bottle (500ml) of cider and push in the pheasant.
Cover with celery stock and chicken stock, if you have any. Bring to the boil, covered, and simmer gently with the lid slightly open
to concentrate the flavours.
Simmer for about 45 minutes, then remove the pheasant and set it aside to cool.
Leave the beans simmering, give them a taste and season them if they need it.
When the beans are softened (maybe another 15 minutes), add about half their volume of celery in fat slices - most of a head.
Continue to cook until the celery is soft: 20-30 minutes.
Meanwhile separate the pheasant legs and breasts. Cut between the thigh and breast, pull the leg away until the joint pops then cut it free.
Slice along the breastbone to free the breast, then cut around it prying gently with your fingers: the breast should come away whole.
Heat a generous amount of butter in a wide frying pan, add a little olive oil (to help stop the burning)
and quickly brown up the legs and breasts (skin still on) on both sides,
then pour in a generous measure of calvados, let it bubble away to coat the pheasant, then set the meat aside to rest.
Stir a generous dollop of olive oil through the beans to coat them, ladle into bowls,
drizzle with lemon juice, place some pieces of pheasant on top (slice them up nicely if you like), pour over any of the calvados deglaze,
and eat with some crusty country bread. Or apple mash
if you're a masochist.