The thing to know about Spaniards, particularly Valencians, is that they are ridiculously precious about their paella.
It doesn't make a whole lot of sense since you can be sure that since Africans began cultivating rice 3,000 years ago
they've been happily frying it up for dinner with the stuff they've dug up or killed that day.
So making a big song-and-dance about
Arroz con Cosas (rice 'n' stuff), even going so far as making it your national dish, seems overkill.
Just don't tell that to a Spaniard!
The history of Valencian paella, reputedly the first and original Spanish paella,
goes back at least as far as the
first published recipe in 1840.
Before this it was certainly being made by rice-picking peasants around the Albufera lagoon near the Mediterranean port of Valencia in Eastern Spain.
They would cook up rice for lunch in a large, flat, easily-transported frying pan called, suspiciously, a
paella, adding any meat they could catch,
and any vegetables they could find - mostly beans.
Apparently they ate quite a lot of eels, snails and water voles this way.
Once the region began prospering in the late 19
th Century, the dish became more of a family meal or a large weekend feast
and began incorporating more rabbit, duck and chicken.
As Spain developed into a 1960's tourist trap, the dish was progressively adopted by travel agents and food snobs
who established ludicrously limiting rules on what should be allowed in an
authentic paella Valenciana.
These are now restricted to
precisely 10 ingredients:
- rice
- water
- salt
- olive oil
- chicken
- rabbit
- garrofo beans (a kind of large lima or butter bean)
- ferradura beans (flat green beans that are a specialty of Valencia)
- tomato (usually grated fresh tomatoes)
- saffron
You will notice that there is neither seafood, nor chorizo in this list.
Despite the fact that the original peasant dish would definitely have used sausage, chorizo, or anything else edible the farm labourers could get their filth-encrusted hands on,
these days if you publish a recipe for paella with chorizo in it - you might just end up featuring on the Spanish evening news.
And not in a good way -
just ask Jamie Oliveoil.
Fortunately, even the most ardent Spanish paella fans allow a certain degree of leeway for non-Valencian forms, especially for
paella do marisco (seafood).
Which is almost certainly as old a recipe as the
original amongst coastal fishing communities. And quite possibly even more popular and well-known.
More-or-less any kind of seafood seems to be used - squid, lobster, mussels, clams, prawns, though not fish.
Still, most everyone agrees on some basic paella cooking principles:
- Use a short-grain Valencian paella rice cooked with about 3 times the volume of liquid, added all at once.
- Cook it in a fairly thin layer (less than an inch deep) in a large, flat pan.
- Do not stir the paella as it simmers - you're not making risotto.
The perfect paella will feature firm, separate rice grains and a gorgeous golden crust on the bottom - called the
socarrat
- which the diners can fight over. And which is
not burned!
If you want to add decorative elements to the surface of the paella for serving, it might be best to par-cook them first,
though you should get away with laying a few quickly-cooking raw prawns on top.
You don't really want to cover the dish lest the rice goes mushy and sticky (except for a 10 minute final rest with a towel).
You can, however, stick the whole pan in the oven for a while to sufficiently cook the upper parts - since it's hard to re-create the effect of a burning wood fire in your kitchen.
Aaron eschews tradition and here and takes a typical chicken and seafood
paella mixta (mixed paella) recipe
but then adds insult to injury with both chorizo
and fish.
I chose prawns, salmon and monkfish from the varied selection on offer for my
arroz con cosas (rice and things).
Let's hope the Spanish never hear of it!
Paella Mixta
main meat fish spanish
Aaron spiced up this basic (and already hopelessly inauthentic)
BBC Good Food
paella de marisco recipe
by adding cayenne, removing the thyme (
thyme!) and adding chicken and chorizo.
Serves 4
- 1 tblsps olive oil
- 1 onion, chopped
- 3 tomatoes
- 1 tsp paprika
- 1 tsp thyme
- 1 tsp cayenne pepper
- 300g paella or risotto rice
- 100ml white wine
- 400g can chopped tomatoes with garlic
- 5 king prawns
- 900ml chicken stock
- handful seafood mix
- 1 lemon, ½ juiced, ½ cut into wedges
- handful of flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped
- 50g chorizo
- 2 chicken thighs
- ciabatta, sliced
- wooden dining spoons
Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan or wok.
Add the onion and soften for 5 mins.
Add the smoked paprika, thyme, cayenne to taste, and paella rice, stir for 1 min, then splash in the wine or sherry, if using.
Once evaporated, stir in the chopped tomatoes and chicken stock.
Season and cook, uncovered, for about 15 mins, stirring now and again until the rice is almost tender and still surrounded with some liquid.
Stir in the seafood mix and cover with a lid.
Simmer for 5 mins, or until the seafood is cooked through and the rice is tender.
Squeeze over the lemon juice, scatter over the parsley and serve with the lemon wedges.
Traditionally eaten with a wooden spoon!
Chop the chorizo into ½" cubes and fry until the oil cooks out and the chorizo begins to colour. Remove with a slotted spoon and set the meat aside.