The Star Inn
Harome, North Yorkshire
Ever since trying out the title dish from Andrew Pern's
fabulous furry cookbook
I've fancied calling on him to try out the real thing.
Just recently I've had occasion - in fact too many occasions - to drive past Harome, where Andrew keeps his
Star Inn
restaurant on my way to visit my ailing Mum. So I decided to take the opportunity to drop in.
It's a bit of a drive down winding country roads to get there, but trust me it's worth the visit. The Inn itself retains all of its 14th Century country charm; thatched roof and creaking sign, and the bar you first enter could be any smoke-beamed, rough-plastered olde worlde pub in the land.
Further inside there is a choice of dining in a traditionally panelled somewhat cramped room that has the disadvantage of acting as a corridor through the pub, or a more modern and airy room in the back which has spacious booths and good lighting. I recommend the latter.
The first time I visited I just popped in for lunch and had to try their justly famous
Grilled Black Pudding with Pan-fried Foie Gras, Salad of Pickering Watercress,
Apple and Vanilla Chutney, Scrumpy Reduction
. It was better than mine :(
For one thing their chutney seemed crunchier and fresher than mine - probably I overcooked it.
Not surprisingly the foie gras was cooked to absolute perfection - crisp and golden on the outside without having wasted away to nothing in the middle. The assembly was beautiful, and the result just exquisite.
I was already looking forward to my next visit.
For which I had the full meal monty. In fact, while I settled in with a complimentary pot of chutney served with provocatively crumbly crisp-bread and lavender butter, I found myself torn between two equally intriguing starters so I ordered them both, and was pleased to have done so. The Soused Mackerel with Beetroot Relish, Pickled Cucumber and Radish was lovely and inspired me to rip it off almost entirely - imitation being the highest form of flattery right? The beetroot relish and mackerel work particularly well together. The sweetness of the beetroot perfectly contrasting the sour oily fish.
I think the only reason I also ordered the Deep-fried Breaded Scarborough Woof with Fennel and Sicilian Lemon, Buttered Marsh Samphire, Sauce Gribiche was to find out what Woof is, and to see how they handled their samphire. I've got a sort of love/hate relationship with samphire. I find it challenging to do well, and love it when it is, but find it very easy to turn out watery, over-salty rope.
I wasn't disappointed - the samphire was adroitly prepared, scattered with tiny brown shrimps, and ingeniously flavoured with lovage - a marriage I haven't come across before but which worked so well I immediately decided to try it out for myself.
Oh, and it turns out that Woof is some kind of wolffish. I suppose there's a dog and catfish joke in there somewhere but I can't be bothered.
Not being satisfied with two starters I was also unable to resist the massive special of the day - a locally raised (the provenance of all their produce is of intense interest at the Star Inn) Beer-Fed Beef Rossini featuring:
Every. Single. Hunk. Of meat in this dish was done to absolute perfection - the generous scoop of their own patê de foie gras was a delight, and the entire ensemble just fantastic. I managed to finish the lot, but only just.
Time for a very light dessert of Raspberry Sorbet and Grapefruit Sorbet. It turns out that grapefruit sorbet is absolutely stunning by the way (sorry no photo - too full!).
A full meal monty indeed! Sample menu pages here and here
Worth a long detour and worthy of a Michelin star - are you listening Michelin Guide?
It's a bit of a drive down winding country roads to get there, but trust me it's worth the visit. The Inn itself retains all of its 14th Century country charm; thatched roof and creaking sign, and the bar you first enter could be any smoke-beamed, rough-plastered olde worlde pub in the land.
Further inside there is a choice of dining in a traditionally panelled somewhat cramped room that has the disadvantage of acting as a corridor through the pub, or a more modern and airy room in the back which has spacious booths and good lighting. I recommend the latter.
For one thing their chutney seemed crunchier and fresher than mine - probably I overcooked it.
Not surprisingly the foie gras was cooked to absolute perfection - crisp and golden on the outside without having wasted away to nothing in the middle. The assembly was beautiful, and the result just exquisite.
I was already looking forward to my next visit.
For which I had the full meal monty. In fact, while I settled in with a complimentary pot of chutney served with provocatively crumbly crisp-bread and lavender butter, I found myself torn between two equally intriguing starters so I ordered them both, and was pleased to have done so. The Soused Mackerel with Beetroot Relish, Pickled Cucumber and Radish was lovely and inspired me to rip it off almost entirely - imitation being the highest form of flattery right? The beetroot relish and mackerel work particularly well together. The sweetness of the beetroot perfectly contrasting the sour oily fish.
I think the only reason I also ordered the Deep-fried Breaded Scarborough Woof with Fennel and Sicilian Lemon, Buttered Marsh Samphire, Sauce Gribiche was to find out what Woof is, and to see how they handled their samphire. I've got a sort of love/hate relationship with samphire. I find it challenging to do well, and love it when it is, but find it very easy to turn out watery, over-salty rope.
I wasn't disappointed - the samphire was adroitly prepared, scattered with tiny brown shrimps, and ingeniously flavoured with lovage - a marriage I haven't come across before but which worked so well I immediately decided to try it out for myself.
Oh, and it turns out that Woof is some kind of wolffish. I suppose there's a dog and catfish joke in there somewhere but I can't be bothered.
Not being satisfied with two starters I was also unable to resist the massive special of the day - a locally raised (the provenance of all their produce is of intense interest at the Star Inn) Beer-Fed Beef Rossini featuring:
A variety of beef cuts including shin, tongue, the classic tournedos (filet mignon),
together with shaved summer truffles, foie gras and patê de foie gras and a rich Madeira demi-glace.
Like Tournedos Rossini but with more than just the tournedos.
I did ask if this beer-happy local farmer also massaged his cows a là Japanese wagyu,
but that information was not (officially) available.Every. Single. Hunk. Of meat in this dish was done to absolute perfection - the generous scoop of their own patê de foie gras was a delight, and the entire ensemble just fantastic. I managed to finish the lot, but only just.
Time for a very light dessert of Raspberry Sorbet and Grapefruit Sorbet. It turns out that grapefruit sorbet is absolutely stunning by the way (sorry no photo - too full!).
A full meal monty indeed! Sample menu pages here and here
Worth a long detour and worthy of a Michelin star - are you listening Michelin Guide?
